The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Around the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on

Jonathan Gallagher
Jonathan Gallagher

A passionate writer and digital nomad sharing experiences from global travels and tech innovations.